The hidden side of Ben Nevis

Every year over 100, 000 people climb to the summit of Ben Nevis, the UK’s tallest mountain. There is real achievement in standing proud on the summit cairn and if you are lucky the views are more than worth the physical effort. Mountains, lochs and glens laid out as far as the eye can see, literally on top of the world, well the UK… However, more often than not the mountain is wearing its cloak of cloud and the summit plateau can be a rather desolate place. If it wasn’t for its accolade as the tallest mountain, I doubt a hike to its top would inspire so many.

Most people who reach this point have journeyed via the Mountain Track and will return the same way. This long stony path rises steadily from Glen Nevis and winds its way up the West side of the mountain. The path originates from the 1880’s when, believe it or not, people were living and working on the summit. In 1883 an observatory was built to allow scientists to record and better understand the weather. It was in operation for over 20 years and the remains of this building can still be seen today. Climbing Ben Nevis in this way can be a great experience but, on this route, you miss the opportunity to experience the place which embodies the true spirit of this landscape: the mountain’s North Face.

The first recorded visit to the summit was by James Robertson in 1771, an Edinburgh based Botanist driven by his desire to collect and categorise the plants of Scotland. However, it wasn’t until the late 19th century that exploration started in earnest on the North Face. These cliffs became the backdrop to a long and important chapter in the development of climbing and mountaineering in the UK. In recent years we have also begun to understand more about their geological and ecological significance. In 2014 climbers, botanists and geologists came together and embarked on a pioneering 2 year project to survey the landscape of the North Face. Through long hours spent in precarious places they discovered a plethora of rare arctic-alpine plants in previously undiscovered locations. The research also provided evidence for an alternative explanation for the mountains formation. The results cemented the reputation of the North Face as a unique and important location. You can find out more about the project here.

My memory of first standing on the summit of Ben Nevis does not stand out as particularly significant. It was early winter and fresh snow had fallen to sea level overnight. We left before dawn and were high on Carn Mor Dearg as the sun rose. Fleeting views of Loch Linnhe were quickly lost in the clouds and the rest of the day was spent in a sea of white. I remember the need for an obligatory photo on the summit cairn and the careful task of navigating a safe descent route. It was a great day out, but one that stands equal to many.

In contrast to this, my explorations to the North Face of the mountain hold some of my most cherished memories. It was several years after I stood on the summit that I first experienced this hidden side of Ben Nevis. It was late May and had been a warm and dry spring. A free weekend brought an opportunity to leave the city and one place called strongly. Simon and I had often talked of climbing rock routes on the North Face but true to its nature it is frequently cold and wet and the right moment had not arisen, at least not until now. Driving north from Edinburgh I was full of excitement and trepidation in equal measure. I longed to spend time in this place, but I was anxious about what would unfold, was I good enough to take on the imposing cliffs? I need not have worried; it was one of the best weekends of my life. Three days spent climbing, exploring and soaking up the atmosphere of this amazing place. I felt at home, a deep connection with my surroundings that brought joy to my mind and body. I’ll never forget the detail of that weekend, spent in the company of nature and friends.

In the years that have passed since I’ve spent many days in the company of those cliffs and never fail to be inspired. The vast majority have been gentle wanders, exploring the landscape beneath my feet, sharing it with others. You do not need to be a rock climber to find wonder here. To me the North Face of Ben Nevis feels like a liminal space, somewhere the everyday can be left behind and you can discover something new. There are many stories to be told here: of fire and ice, forests felled and mountaineering history made, stone circles lost to the heather. To stand on the summit of Ben Nevis is an achievement, to soak up the atmosphere of the North Face is something much more profound.

If you would like to experience this for yourself then join me for: Beneath Ben Nevis: stories in the shadows. Group dates are scheduled throughout the summer and bespoke bookings are available on request. I look forward to sharing this special place with you.