Mountain guiding through the seasons 

Highland Weather

We all know that one of the things that unifies anyone in the Scottish Highlands is a good old blether about the weather. Why? Because we get a lot of it and it’s always changing, there’s always something to talk about. But, what if this changing weather was something to celebrate, to live our lives by rather than rail against? 

As I write this it’s late January, halfway through my fifth winter since moving to a remote farmhouse in the Scottish Highlands. It’s a tough time of year but even in the darkest of days there is joy to be found if you take a moment to look for it. 

Seasonality

Seasonality is one of the things I love the most about living and working as a mountain guide in the Scottish Highlands. The ebb and flow of the weather and light shapes how the days are spent. The constant change means you can always rediscover places a new. Each change in season brings a shift to a different way of being. This is of course how people used to live, when our existence was more closely linked to the land, to being outside. A way of living that is perhaps best remembered. 

I am often asked ‘what is the best time of year to visit the Highlands?’ My answer is anytime – it just depends what you want to do.

The first days of spring always feel so bright, brimming with energy and promise. When you feel the warmth return to the suns rays and vibrant green grasses spring up from nowhere you know its time to stretch your legs and shake off winter. This is a time for slow journeys through the mountains, awakening your senses to life returning. Strengthening muscles for the adventures yet to come as the year unfolds. 

Mountains in bloom

In late spring mountain flowers start to come into bloom; starry saxifrage, cloud berry, creeping azalea, moss campion, wild thyme, to name but a few. Mountain slopes are dotted with colour and any walk is more special for it. 

It is a great time of year to enjoy wild camping. The days are lengthening, the weather is often calm and settled and the insects still sleeping! It’s also a quiet time in the hills, you can go for miles and not see another soul. I’ve always wondered why because it’s such a wonderful time in the mountains, so ssshhhhh don’t tell too many folk!

Summer is a time for big adventures in high mountain terrain. The days are long and there is a lot that can be fitted in. Experiment with the timings of your adventures start late and aim for a summit sunset. Go for longer routes that you wouldn’t have the confidence to tackle when daylight is in short supply. In dry settled weather build your confidence on more technical terrain and exhilarating ridges. 

Fickle weather

Summer weather as always can be fickle with long spells of warm, dry weather or days and days of rain. It’s best, as always, to have flexible plans. Take into account potential risks such as river crossings and thunder and lightning storms. Lightening is becoming an increasingly common feature of summer mountain weather. It is worthwhile taking some time to understand it and the implications for hillwalking. You can read more about that here. 

Autumn is all about colour as the vibrancy of summer fades the vivid diversity of autumn comes into full swing. Russet browns, reds, ocre and orange replace green. Wildlife springs into action busying itself for the winter ahead, the increase in activity meaning we are much more likely to cross paths. In the mountains there is nothing more majestic than standing witness to the Red Deer rut in full swing. Even if you’re not lucky enough to see it you are certain to hear the roars of the stags echoing through the corries. 

Boost your skills

This is another great time of the year for camping, the midges are long past their peak and, if you get lucky the golden light of an autumn morning is second to none. Gone is the summer haze and on a clear day you can see for miles. 

It’s also a time for practicing the skills that you will need to keep enjoying the mountains through the darker days. Get that map and compass out and hone those skills, join a course to make sure you’ve got it dialled. 

Winter in the Scottish Highlands can be many things. Conditions change rapidly, from a deeply frozen snowy wonderland under bright blue skies to storm force winds and torrential rain in a matter of hours. More than any other time of year your need to be prepared for everything. 

Staying safe requires a wider skill set. You need top notch navigation and the ability to know when and how to use ice-axe and crampons for safe movement. A winter skills course is a very worthwhile investment to enable you to get out in the mountains year-round. Keep your objectives manageable, shorter distances and familiar terrain. Remember that you are likely to move much slower when dealing with weather and snow than at other times of year so plan accordingly. 

Wild days and cosy nights

Whatever the weather winter hill days can be some of the most rewarding. You might get lucky and glide over snowy slopes glinting in the sun, more likely you’ll get a face full of weather and an occasional breath-taking view. Either one are wonderful and I’d even argue that when your cosied up by the fire the latter will feel all the more rewarding. 

Of course, you don’t have to go high. Explore the forests, glens and the foothills, marvel at waterfalls in full force or spend some time with the waves crashing on the west coast. A few hours of fresh air is all you need to reset and boost your endorphins through until spring.