Anna Danby
Same, same, different on the Ring of Steall
I am caught by surprise these days when I happen upon some time by myself, sometimes I think I have forgotten what to do with it. Not today, today I definitely made the most of it.
Drawn to familiar ground I set out for a solo run of the Ring of Steall. A well known high circuit of 4 Munros and lots of technical terrain. I’ve guided this route so many times, I feel I know some of the rocks personally. I’m seeking comfort in the known. Not wanting to be too set in routine I decide to check out a new to me approach, one described in Highland Scrambles South. I suspect it might be a path less travelled, I am to be proved right.
The Crux
Heading out from the carpark I feel a spring in my step. I’ve spent most of this summer walking with a heavy pack and there is a different freedom that comes from being light and fast. I make for the infamous wire bridge, to me the crux of this route, and shuffle across it with care.
Relieved to be on the other side I take a line, as described in the book, up and right on to a wild hillside. Weaving between Birch and Rowan, Bracken and Burn, aiming for a small Corrie above. It’s a steep, soggy, slog and I’m relieved to take a moment and enjoy the reward of beautiful views to the valley below.
Into the Wild
The route traverses into a vast Corrie, overlooked by steep imposing folds of quartzite a reminder of time gone by. This is wild country and so far I find no trace of humans having passed here any time recently. I feel small and happy.
As I near the high ridge that winds it’s way to the first summit two stags appear. Strong and bold they skirt the skyline. I follow their well worn path and as I emerge onto the ridge my ears ring with the roars rising from the valley below. The rut is on and it’s a wonder to behold.
The summit comes easily now and with it a known path. I’m glad to settle in to the familiar. It’s wet underfoot and I move as quickly as I safely can, still plenty slow enough to take it all in. Colours and textures changing beneath my feet, a raven soars, shifting views through the mist, the meanders of a river far below. A moving meditation.
Rain, rain go away
A few hours have passed and I’ve seen no one. I revel in getting this place all to myself. Approaching the third summit the weather draws in and it’s raining hard. My light weight waterproof is soaked already and I grump at the weather forecast for promising dry. Then I remember it is Scotland and anything can happen, 4 seasons in a day, I was foolish to expect anything less. My attention moves to my feet, suddenly aware that a slip here could have serious consequences.
Brochen Spectre
By the final ascent the sky is brightening. When I step carefully onto the rocky ridge I cry out with glee, a Brocken Spectre greets me. A wonder of the hills and I allow myself a moment to be with it. Thinking of others who have come across these and the spooky tails they inspire. No surprise really before there was science to explain.
Now the sun is shining and I slip and slide my way down to the welcoming valley floor. I am greeted by day trippers to Steall Falls as I enjoy the final run back to the car. Steps my feet know so well fuelling a final burst of speed.
Less than 4 and a half hours have passed since I left this spot and I marvel at how much I have experienced in such a short time.
This is why I go to the mountains, to live more with less.
Word of Warning
This approach to the Ring of Steall offers a truly wild alternative on a route that is otherwise very well trodden. I very much enjoyed going this way however, I do not recommend it unless you are confident route finding on steep, pathless and sometimes rocky terrain. If you would like to get better at this then get in touch!
